There is no doubt that Kanchipuram silk sarees look elegant and graceful but it takes quite a good amount of time in making it. Since it is a time taking procedure a lot of Kanchipuram silk saree makers started to avoid making it. But then came the revolution and that is the implementation of electronic jacquard which made the weaving process way easier.
Woven textiles in India is very common. Women, in particular, will be seen weaving sarees, shawls, and more. Handloom is an essential part of India. Many Indian make their livelihood out of handloom business. We have created this article to give you an insight into the Kanchipuram silk saree weaving industry and how electronic jacquard is used to create some of the master piece. Read on.
What is weaving?
Weaving is a process where you interlace two weaving thread sets. The two thread will be placed in the warp which is longitudinal and filling which is horizontal. The weaver will start with the warp, which is a set of parallel threads and they will run along with the length of the fabric that has been decided. However, the filling thread will be placed as per the cloth but one row at a time. The variety of the entwining succession of each filling string with the twist strings is brought about by raising a subset of twist strings before embedding filling string.
How electronic jacquards help in weaving Kanchipuram silk sarees?
A ‘Jacquard loom’ is a mechanical loom that streamlines the way toward assembling materials which are complex with punched cards. The computer controlled loom are called electronic jacquard loom which essentially decrease the down time and the common expense related with changing punched paper structures. In spite of the fact that the machines were at first little, present day innovation has permitted Jacquard machine ability to expand fundamentally, and single end twist control can reach out to in excess of 10,000 twist closes. This maintains a strategic distance from the requirement for rehashes and symmetrical structures and permits practically endless adaptability. Electronic Jacquard weaving, obviously, utilizes a wide range of strands and mixes of filaments, and it is utilized in the generation of textures for some, end employments. The most generally known utilization of electronic jacquards is identified with the woven business items, for example, kanchipuram sarees, covers, silk covers, towels, plastic mats, place settings, floor coverings, dress materials, suiting and shirting, names, outfitting, upholstery, lacs and so forth.
What is the scope of electronic Jacquards in the weaving industry?
The previous decade has gotten a transformation electronic jacquard weaving everywhere throughout the world. Because of this transformation, the accessibility of fitting programming instruments has turned out to be fundamental to satisfy the requests of material producers and loom clients. The most well-known electronic jacquard sizes embraced in various parts of India run from 448 Hooks to 2688 Hooks. Going for higher snares electronic jacquard, one can weave more extensive progressively nitty gritty structures. The proposed programming instrument is produced remembering expert weavers, material fashioners and weavers occupied with weaving restrictive sarees utilizing Power Looms and Hand Looms fitted with electronic jacquards.
Pre- handling of the designing part of the texture is set up using different design segments. When a Kanchipuram silk saree is made, the weaver will look into the detailed structure of the border, body of the saree, pallu design as well as blouse piece too. All of these things create the final Kanchipuram saree. The designer will design each segment which will be displayed on the silk saree and will go through proper arrangements of each section. They have to be placed in proper position and certain adjustments will also be made accordingly.
Once the final design is ready and done then the repeat setting and joining takes place to complete the borders. You can see the saree weaving process at https://kanjivaramsilks.com . This procedure will require hooks as well as picks and certain border adjustments according to the design will also take place. An electronic jacquard can have say 1792 hook, but the one used to weave sarees has around 1536 hooks. So extra blank design on both the sides of saree is prepared to match with what the hooks of the electronic jacquard. This product strategy includes or evacuate outskirt of required size at the predefined side of the plan. While including outskirt it will include clear plan at the predetermined position on the base structure.
Why was electronic jacquard introduced?
The pneumatic loom uses packed air to lift the assembly and an Electronic Jacquard Controller, with inbuilt structure base of around 3000. The Electronic Jacquard Controller evaluated at ₹90,000 can without much of a stretch be incorporated with an ordinary handloom and diminishes the time taken to deliver a saree.
Prior, it took one month to weave 2-3 sarees, however, with this innovation, 15 sarees can be created without even taking a break.
Reports say that for weaving a basic saree utilizing the conventional technique would require no less than 5000 cards, valued ₹4 each and it could go up to as high as 1.5 lakh cards for muddled plans.
Youth not all that sharp
The previous decade saw a decrease in the number of weavers across the nation. Since weaving is serious and it requires dedication, it wears out individuals after 15 to 20 years of constant and rigorous work, which completely becomes unattractive for the younger generation weavers.
Kanchipuram, which used to have 50,000 weavers, presently has just 10,000 and Arani’s weaving populace has boiled down to 25,000 from 75,000 which is definitely not a good sign.
No physical strain
Ladies shunned taking an interest in the weaving as it included physical strain. However at this point, with the help of electronic jacquard, ladies are now showing interest in weaving Kanchipuram saree and also it is beneficial for them also.
A lot of adequate changes have been introduced to the weaving industry, implementation of machineries like electronic jacquard is surely a huge step.
Machines like these make the process of Kanchipuram silk saree weaving easy and weaver find it easier to weave on machines like this. Master weavers have been asked about the revolution of this machine and they said that it make them weave efficiently and earlier when it used to take months to complete one saree, now they are able to complete multiple sarees within no time. Also, it allows them to add their own ideas to the designs too. It increases the productivity of the weavers and id highly beneficial for the handloom industry.